May 1st: Black Kits are currently in stock; however, shipping is temporarily halted due to illness. We will resume as soon as we can guarantee speedy shipping. Please email with any questions.
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May 1st: Black Kits are currently in stock; however, shipping is temporarily halted due to illness. We will resume as soon as we can guarantee speedy shipping. Please email with any questions.
Cart 0

Docs

QMK/Keymap:
A good starting point for your personal QMK keymap can be found in my repo here. The linked keymap has everything you need to verify your hardware build is working (all keyswitches, Trackpoint, Mouse Buttons, Scroll Wheel, OLED). 

The Santoku config still needs some minor updating to match QMK's formatting requirements. After that I'll get merged into the official QMK repo.

However, everything in the Santoku folder is "standard" QMK. There is no special code that exists outside of there or requires a custom fork. So, if you're interested, it should be trivial to do a fresh QMK pull and simply copy the entire Santoku folder to your up-to-date QMK repo.

Hardware Build Docs:
Detailed written docs are still being finalized. However, you can see the almost completed work here. Input is always welcome.

Additionally, extensive video documentation is available here.

Suggested Order to Assemble/Test Hardware:
Having built and helped testers build quite a few Santoku at this point, I generally suggest assembling in this order (assuming the happy path):

  1. Flash QMK using the above linked keymap (if using your own Elite-C)
  2. Install the Elite-C
    1. Note the orientation that the hotswaps go! Note the Elite-C is installed on the BOTTOM of the PCB but RIGHT SIDE up. Also note that the Elite-C includes its own pins but DO NOT use them -- They are too thick for the hotswap's hole. Mount the Elite-C with wire snipped from the included diodes. (I keep emphasizing this because I've seen things).
  3. Install the OLED (Same sort of note as above. Note the orientation of the hotswaps).
    1. Try plugging in the USB cable. See if your OLED shows the welcome message.
  4. Unplug the USB cable.
  5. Assemble the Trackpoint parts and attach its FFC but don't mount the plate to the PCB (because you still need to solder the keyswitches). This is also a good time to decide if you want to mount the Trackpoint to the left or the right of the index finger homing key.
    1. Plug in the USB cable. Test the motion of the Trackpoint. In theory, if the Trackpoint works, the Trackpoint mouse buttons should work too. But this is electronics, so this is a good time to grab a short length of wire and test the mouse button contacts too. 
    2. I like to use an online keyboard tester. This one is especially nice for the Santoku because it also detects mouse button clicks.
  6. Now is also a good time to use that short wire to test the keyswitch pads to make sure all the connections are solid. Make sure each of the SMD diodes and Elite-C connections are still firmly soldered. For keys that don't directly output to the screen, the OLED will often show feedback for different layers/modes. 
  7. Unplug the USB cable. Unplug the Trackpoint's FFC Cable from the PCB.
  8. Install the Mouse Button Assembly. Test this part thoroughly, especially the middle mouse button.
    1. Everything needs to click and release freely. Before sending out each kit I tested each Mouse Button Assembly on a dummy PCB but double check once everything is screwed down and under tension. It's easiest to ensure this is perfect now rather than when everything is fully assembled and screws are not easily accessible. 
  9. Install the Scroll Wheel. (don't bend the axle!).
    1. Plug in the USB cable. Test the Scroll Wheel.
  10. At this point, you should be able to verify that everything is working
  11. If everything is working, you can solder the keyswitches.
  12. Now you can install the Trackpoint mounting plate to the PCB and properly route the Trackpoint's FFC.
  13. Mount the PCB and assemble the case.
  14. Install the FFC between the left PCB and right PCB.
  15. Install the keycaps. Use the included jig to cut the caps around the Trackpoint nub.
  16. Wait until bedtime to install the nonslip grips on the bottom of the case. The glue needs about eight hours to truly bond the parts "enough". After 24 hours the glue will completely cure. But let it dry overnight, at least, before using with the pads.
    1. Also, please know that the glue I used in the assembly videos was very old and thick. The glue included in your kit should be much more fluid. So, please (please) first practice getting a nice thin stream of glue on something other than your keyboard. Get a feel for how to stop the flow of the glue so you don't create a "string" of glue at the end of the stream.